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Friday, December 24, 2010

Russia is for Russians



Manezh Square, I can only describe, in comparison, like the other "squares" in Russia as the main area in a college campus like Columbia University.  The surrounding buildings massive, not in height, monuments erected long ago but still beautiful, non-decaying and clean. A walk down a garden buried in snow.  When I landed there was snow, when my flight was delayed, it was because of snow.  A statue of an aged bearded Russian descendant which without color can still transcend the communist wardrobe.  The riots that closed down part of the Metro on Manezh square near the Kremlin was due to anger with nationalist and fanatics (some sports).  These fanatics joined by nationalist were put down by Russian anti-riot officers Saturday but not before they created havoc, supposedly aimed at assaulting anyone non-Russian that caused numerous injuries and killed one man.  The riots were a response to a physical confrontation that took place after a sporting event.  What they call people of Armenian/Muslim "Caucasus" shot and killed a sports fan, Yegor Sviridov, from a sports organization.  The riots ended Saturday, my flight took off Sunday evening, it landed in Sheremetyevo-3, Moscow, on Monday morning.  A comment made my way is the Kremlin is safe but be careful.  I wait at the airport.  Traveling, like life is all about waiting.  In the airport I catch up on much sleep that I have been needing and have been wanting.  The reason I slept and stayed at the airport is because based on experience, I know that there is a booking policy for some hotels in which you cannot check-in until 1400 hours, unless noted.

I'm not a world traveler but flying is a basic concept, it has a simple procedure that a novice flyer can find their way.  Step one is to call the airline to find the terminal for that airport your flight will be in.  Step two is to check-in (with or without baggage and get your boarding pass).  Step three security check.  Step four is to find the gate number based on the itinerary you just received once checked in.  After finding your terminal, is simply waiting for any changes to your flight and wait for boarding.  The first gripe, though not the major, is Aeroflot airlines.  The process to get me on board was simple and routine at JFK, my departure from home.  The problem with step one on returning home is I don't speak Russian and some staff were just rude because of that, some, others were very helpful.  I had to find out which terminal my flight was to be at for my departure back home to JFK, with persistent asking more than one person because some staff members at airlines are idiots, I find it, "E".  I walk and walk, then walk some more to get to "E", it's not labeled at Sheremetyevo, I have to ask and ask again, then ask again.  The second issue, due to snow that day of my flight: Delayed, no problem, understandable because others have been Cancelled.  But they switched gates three times, walk more needed.  It's so true that the advice to get to the airport early, about two hours early before the scheduled time is important because not only for getting through security issues but issues that may come up with the flight(s).  Flying is an activity of patience, following a protocol of unperfected organization and comfort you have to adjust to.  I hate flying.  Nine hours cramped with limited brain or physical activities.

Lack of sensitivity or that soft touch is what I would consider Russian communication, especially toward one who is non-Russian.  I speak in terms of some, not all Russians.  It gets the job done and I have often liked that characteristic.  To a Russian, from my perspective, if in their mind they have a question or find something that is not to their liking, they will say or do something in a strong manner to deal with their dislike or question to find an answer.  Does this hold true for other nationalities?  Yes, but I am just being explicitly pointing out the prominence on specifics of Russian character traits, if I visited China or Korea, I would do the same.  That approach is great, it gets things done, but it can also lead to confrontation.  One example at the airport, due to the strong questioning toward airport staff by my passenger peers is a strong: where the fuck is the flight from the crowd of ticket holders.  The response is about six security officers, four of them in darker uniform with berets and guns.  Totally worth it, for culture and adventure.  My trip to Amsterdam in August went much smoother on KLM but the only gripe on that flight back home on Delta was colder and still cramped.  Maybe I'll repost and update my thoughts on it.  Schipol airport is very unorganized and the staff not too great either.

---This is the first time I ever taste caviar, always wanted to, but never splurged on such a considered luxury.  But when in the country of where it is specialized or known for and to not try it in the region it is crafted in is like going to Italy and not trying mom and pop's mozzarella or going to Hong Kong and not eating handmade noodles or dumplings.  Food in Russia is different, of course, I dined in a few local restaurants and had street fair.  I don't know how to describe it in comparison to American cuisine except it's more basic, meaning a chef's creativity.  The food is a traditional family like meal.  Meals consist on a good sized portion of bread-liked baked goods, dumpling-like confections, soups (borscht-like and Ukha-fish) and veggies are served plain, sorry no big salads of romaine mixed with balsamic vinegar and shredded cheese (basically and mainly shredded cucumbers, potatoes and cabbages.  The steak I had was good but I couldn't find a good steak restaurant (maybe it was the area I was in), most of the restaurants served the beef cuts in chunks of fatty beef.  It was great to try all these different things I never had before and could barely reiterate due to spelling and pronunciation.  Oh yes, you can get a burger and there is a McDonald's there but spelled in Russian.

---This chocolate Babaevskiy aka "Babaebcknn" (in non-Russian characters) is made of 75% cocoa (kakao).  I will put it on mid shelf, rating it a three point nine out of five.  It is not too strong, it has no after taste and they are less diluted with sugar or milk.  Hershey's I loved your dark chocolate and still do but I have fount a mistress.

---Approximately 31 rubles (руб) equals a dollar and 40.79 rubles (руб) equals a Euro

---Russia is like the all other countries, you have your luxurious areas with Russian brands and stores more expensive than Prada or Louis Vuitton.  The stores themselves shine and when you enter, if you have 1,000 dollars in rubles, you might be able to afford a watch.  Street vendors are less during the cold season but still plenty in certain areas.

---I did not stay extensively enough to find the best in nightlife, tourist attractions and restaurants; I stayed local to my hotel a few metro stations and the Kremlin.  The metro is truly grand.  The Russian stations are as well desinged as Grand Central Station. Only one problem, reading the station in Russian.

---I walked more than I normally do.  You do -alot- of walking and walking and walking.  I was very wary of people trying to rob me, rip me off or even trying to attack/kidnap me.  I was advised to be careful of taxi drivers, shady looking people/groups and stay with someone (especially at night).  Thus I stayed local and with the masses.

---It was cold.  But even in the cold, activities during the travel "shoulder" season was abundant, it's just less crowded but life is as usual.  There was already snow on the ground when I landed.  It gave a good four inches of snow with many flights cancelled or delayed on the morning of my departure.

---Russia in my opinion are full of красивые девушки, though I only had the pleasure of meeting one красивая девушка.  Russian women are beautiful and bold, many.  I'm a soft spoken gentleman, I believe in Theodore Roosevelt's model "speak softly and carry a big stick".  When the waiter didn't hear that I wanted water in addition to my Coca-Cola, when I am tired from travel my voice tends to diminish, she spoke up for me.  I'm just sad that I had to paraphrase the response "Het, my home is not Moscow".  Where is Denver, Russia?  Or is it Tver?  Maybe I heard the pronunciation incorrectly.

---Russian men have this stern look, the way they stare.  The stern part, I understand: there is a notion in most societies that men are suppose to be aggressive, strong and authoritative.  Especially so, in Russian society, the notion in the previous sentence is heightened a little more so.  In Russia, one means of traditional sensitivity killer is Vodka, in parts of the United States, it's my favorite: Whiskey.  Or if you go way down south: Aguardiente.  It's the way I interpret it as the stare is they are looking to interpret of their focus.  The second is they already have an opinion about the situation or person they are looking at with distaste or approval.  But when that stare is upon me, I don't get intimidated easily, I stare back.  So, my Russian comrade, friend or foe.  I have fount most Russians are very pleasant.

---Freaking tolerance of culture:  What's to like about "From Russia with Love" is that what they export can be nice like beauty and strength but when it comes to importing, they can pull that welcome mat back inside and leave you out in the cold.

---I had to interpret and ask because those symbols in their alphabet, I have to use another translation: "Como"?  It seems like in the Greek alphabet there are non-English characters and like Spanish you have to learn the masculine, feminine and what are called neuter, meaning exactly the scary meaning to have no masculine or feminine label to them, in wording 'tis fine but in sexuality...

-He boatan! (non-Russian characters)

-BыXOд!

1 comment:

  1. I see your point, and I fully understand the meaning of the title of your post; Russia for Russians. I guess the Russians stand-off-ish demeanor is a lingering by-product of their Communist days where political hard-liners like Ivan the Terrible and Stalin, established the norm of cold shoulder diplomacy, with relations with the west. One wouldn't be wrong to think that over the years and generations, this kind of leadership stance would naturally be engrained into the social fabric of Russian society. A social atmosphere of such could breath strife, not only with foreigners, but with ethnic classes. And I think thats what you experience the days following Yegor Sviridov death. After reading your post, it does not make me wonder why Russia do not make most travelers short list of most seek destinations. Or why I have yet to see Russia offered as a vacation prize to be won on the Wheel of Fortune or the Price is Right.

    F.S.S. (Funny Side Story)
    A co-worker of mine offered me a box of Russian chocolate; A. Kopkyhob, as a reward for doing a favor. And yes the person in question, is Russian.

    forthminor

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